Jig hook size

[Dejon Hamann]

I've been relying on jig hooks for my river nymphs more and more lately.  For those that are fans of this style of nymph do you find the same positive attributes found in utilizing say a size 10 relate to smaller sizes like a 16 or 18? What's the smallest size jig nymph (bead) you'll tie?

And vice versa, how large will you utilize jig flies?  10+?  Streamers?  Legged nymph varietals?

[Adam Franceschini]

I have had great success with sz 14 and 16!

[Dejon Hamann]

Do you use slotted or regular beads?

[Steve Parrott]

D,

I love the jig nymphs for two main reasons - 1) they ride with the hook up in the water, bead down and I have noticed a decrease in the snag rates on the bottom and 2) they almost always seem to hook the fish in the top of the mouth which is one of the most secure spots!!!

I started with the #14's and #16's on super long leaders for vary wary fish but have recently migrated to the #8, #10 and #12's fishing them on a short leader in the faster water.  I am finding that I will reach for a larger jig style nymph now for my anchor fly instead of the grub/czech style which may seem odd to most.  I feel that they get down as quick or quicker, less snags and an overall increase in the number of fish I land because they are hook solidly in the top of the mouth!!!

When tying these, I use the slotted tungsten beads in regular and faceted depending on the pattern.  With the slotted bead, you can get it closer to the eye of the hook as it will make that turn and the fly will ride correctly in the water.  It is pretty amazing how shallow you can fish these type of flies and not get hung up!!

Let me know your thoughts??

Steve

[Alain Barthelemy]

Adam: nice to see you here!

I have the Hanak jig hooks in 8-16 and use them all, but 12 and 14 most.  I always use the slotted tungsten beads.  The European beads (Umpqua carries some too) that are sized on 0.5mm increments are designed to be proportional to the jig hooks.  If you buy Hanak beads, they will "look right" on the Hanak hooks. 

I agree with Steve about the benefits of jigs.  The other feature about them I like is the fact you can oversize the bead without blocking the hook point.  No matter how large a bead you put on, it never goes beyond the eye of the hook.

For the largest jigs, I only tie one style: the soft hackled wooly worm, generally in black.  If you tie this fly in a size 8 with a colorful bead, you will get an awesome dirty water searching fly.  Rich Ostoff's books make a strong case for this fly and I agree.  The only trouble with the painted beads is that the paint will chip off right away.

For the small jig, size 16, I generally make thread bodies.  Steve's video has a good one, called "Micro Mayfly."  Another good one is an Iron Lotus style with olive thread and a lighter thread (white or gray) rib.  If you lacquer the Lotus body with Hard-As-Nails, it can sometimes be frustratingly slow to dry.  To speed drying, simply heat the fly (from a distance) with a lighter.  The polish sometimes catches fire so watch out.

Finally, my other go-to BWO style jig uses Olive Micro tubing for the body, tied over a tapered thread underbody.  I call this fly the "Untouchable."  Last winter I used the non-jig version of this fly with great success.  In the winter the fish tend to stack in the slower pools, so I was fishing it in a suspension (dry-dropper) rig and didn't need the jig so much.  For stream fishing in moving water, the jig version is far better and I used it all this year.  Here are a couple pictures of the fly (size 18 TMC 100SPBL) and its result.

[Dejon Hamann]

Steve, I dig the jig for all the reasons you've listed.  Glad to hear you've had good success with the 16s I'll be adding that to my standard 12. I have a working theory that hook sizing is relatively unimportant so I usually skip sizes.  Looking forward to experimenting with slotted beads and seeing if it enhances the right angle affect.  Wish we could get slotted in more than the standard 4 colors though!

Nice tie Alain. The micro tubing looks very buggy.  I've really lost confidence in that hook though... in fact, any hook with a blade point.

[Steve Parrott]

Dejon,

I have a rather large shipment of slotted faceted tungsten beads on the way to me right now and I tried to get them in colors but with the faceted style, they cannot paint them and the paint will chip.  He can paint the regular beads but the painted tungsten we have now will chip with the first rock you hit.  A real bummer as you spend all of this time tying and the first or second drift the bead is already chipped!!

I intend to keep looking for a better slotted painted bead which requires samples being sent to me and then tying them up and fishing them.  Not a bad way to do R&D but really time consuming. 

I totally agree with Alain that you can definitely oversize the bead which will aid in getting the fly down faster with these hooks.  I use a 3.0mm on the #16 and can get away with a 3.5mm on a 14 when needed, it just depends on the pattern. 

I am using the Umpqua Competition C400BL hooks (Hanak) and love them.  I have also had great success with the Knapek and Skalka, just a real pain in the #$& to get!!! 

Steve

[William Kavanagh]

I've been relying on jig hooks for my river nymphs more and more lately.  For those that are fans of this style of nymph do you find the same positive attributes found in utilizing say a size 10 relate to smaller sizes like a 16 or 18? What's the smallest size jig nymph (bead) you'll tie?

And vice versa, how large will you utilize jig flies?  10+?  Streamers?  Legged nymph varietals?

Hi Dejon, i recently picked up the Hendz jig hooks barbed and barbless and they are really nice 8-16