Dry vs. Wet Fly

[Jay Looper]

This is definitely a novice question, but I think this is the right forum to post it in. According to the way the forum is setup, there are 4 categories of flies: dry, wet, nymph and streamer. It is very easy for me to visibly identify nymphs and streamers. However, I do still have difficulty identifying the whether a fly is dry or wet by just lookng at it. I think I know that dries are traditionally tied with up-eyed hooks and wets with down-eyed, but this is a general statement that may not always hold true. I know that an easy test is to drop it in a glass of water and see what happens, but I want to increase my knowledge of flies and would like input on this topic. Thanks!

Btw, with this post, I become a yellow trout belt, which is  probably approriate for both this forum and my level on the streams
AA

[Dejon Hamann]

All though both genres of flies have endless permutations it's easiest to distinguish the two categories by looking at classic examples:

The Adams is a classic Catskill Dry fly built light with hackle to float high and imitate the adult mayfly floating on the surface. This pattern is normally cast upstream and allowed to drift without motion:

Fly: Bob Petti, Photograph: Hans Weilenmann

Here's a not so classic Dry Fly.  The Chernobyl Ant - built to float. Period.  And surprisingly it still catches fish:

Fly: Derek Smith, Photograph: Hans Weilenmann

A Spider is a classic "olde world" wet fly.  Very simple: dubbed body and some sort of soft hackle.  The soft hackle molds and undulates around the dubbed body to imitate buggy legs and shucks as an aquatic insect (normally mayfly or caddis) is emerging (ascending through the water column) to the surface.  This fly is normally fished on a swing downstream and across:

Fly: Elliot Bennett, Photograph: Hans Weilenmann

Here's a not so classic Wet Fly.  A "Teasing Emerger" with woven body and bead.  All though I guess it falls under the "Wet Fly" category I would personally section it as "Emerger" since the tactics I would use to fish it would differ greatly from a Classic Wet - mainly upstream on a dropper utilizing a "lift" as it hits a feeding zone:

Fly: Niclas Runarsson, Photograph: Hans Weilenmann

Of course there are many many different styles of both of these sets and tactics to fish them.  Many of the "dry flies" I fish would be scoffed at by traditionalists as they are constructed more for buoyancy rather than straight bug imitating power... all though they catch their fair number of fish.  And most of the wets I use incorporate some sort of tungsten bead and synthetic body to get them down as I don't use extraneous lead.  Both merely biproducts of comp. style fishing though.

Take a look at Umpqua's freshwater fly categories.  Sift through the patterns a bit and you'll start to see how the flies are constructed to suit their intended purpose.  Just note that when they say "wet fly" they usually mean "nymph."  Classic Wet Fly patterns and tactics aren't very popular State side and thus don't make the catalogs. 
http://www.umpqua.com/c-2-freshwater-flies.aspx

[Jay Looper]

Thanks for the pics and explanation. That umpqua site is also a great resource. Some day, I want to take up fly tying - when you tie your own, I am sure it is easier to learn their names. But right now is probably not the best time in my life to pick up another fishing or hunting related hobby.

[Dejon Hamann]

I HIGHLY recommend jumping into fly tying as soon as possible.  If you think you might "someday" just do it now.  You will be richly rewarded and the sooner you start the sooner your skills will increase.  You can get started ridiculously cheap and just start on 1 pattern for now: Pheasant Tails.

Vice (Cheapy under $20)
Scissors
Bobkin
1 Black 8/o Thread
1PT Feather Pack
1 Ultra Wire Gold/Small
Hooks... say nymph 10/12 for now
1 Pack equiv. sized Gold Beads

You'll also be able to tie Zebra Midges with the same materials and they're even easier than PTs!  Get a pack of dubbing and your tying Hares Ears.  Get a pack of partridge feathers and your tying soft hackle emergers.  And so on and so on.  You can still buy some of the "tougher" patterns like Parachute adams, CAddis, Stimmies, Stones, etc, etc from the store.

Just my 2 cents.